How to Fix dv2000 No Video No Wireless issues Nvidia Video Chip Separating from the system board.
This will also give you symptoms of no wireless connectivity or loosing the wireless card.. or the system will loose the dvd/cd rom before the chip will entirely go out ... lots of different problems can be attributed to this issue .. they all have something to do with the Nvidia ChipSet. Also will exibit 3 beeps and no video, or continuious power recycle with no video, or turn on and shut down 5 or 10 seconds later.
How to Fix No Video issues with a Penny??? Spend a penny save 350$ dollars??
Did you want a video .... read through the post and check the end for how I did it ...
This issue affects HP Pavilion dv2000, dv6000, dv9000, tx1000, Compaq Presario V3000, V6000, and Compaq F700 Series notebooks.
*** I am providing this information for free to all but if I have helped you, you may consider a small donation 1$ or what ever. So I can continue with this and more information on other repairs. ******
Directly from HP's web site
HP has identified a hardware issue with certain HP Pavilion dv2000/dv6000/dv9000 and Compaq Presario V3000/V6000 series notebook PCs, and has also released a new BIOS for these notebook PCs, version F.39 for dv2000/V3000, and version F.3D for dv6000/dv9000/V6000
The first thing you should do if you are experiencing these issues is
to go directly to HP's Website and see if you fall under their extended limited warranty just click on the link I have provided for you.
Now if you are not covered under warranty any longer ... HP will help you at a cost .. it could be over 350$ dollars plus shipping and handling. With that type of cost you may as well just go out an purchase a new computer.
If you really decide to do that SEND ME YOUR COMPUTER I WILL TAKE IT!!!!
****Warning CYA stuff again this will void your warranty (if you still have one) and can render your laptop useless if you do something wrong if you are not comfortable taking this or any electronic product apart have a qualified Service Technician do if for you I take no responsibilities if you decide to to this your self. There is always a risk of electrocution as well capacitors can retain a charge and the power supply as well as the battery should be removed when any repair is made. (have to do this warning just a CYA thing) OH BTW DON'T DO THIS (ok that should cover me)********
But you can follow the previous posts dv6000 disassembly Part 1 and Part 2.
Also there is a guide here for the DV9000 series 17" laptop tear down
DV2000 series Tear-Down guide can be found here.
After Part 3 of the DV2000 post or the last post of the other DV tear-down guides, you will have access to the system board ... you will need to take off the Heat Sink and fan assembly if you have made it this far you should be able to do that with no problem.. as well I would remove the processor from the ZIF socket.. and you will have this.
These are Actual pictures of the DV6000 system board so your will look a little different ... but rest asured this has been tested to work on several dv2000 systemboards.
The chip that is causing the problem is circled .... thats the Nvidia Video Chip. To be honest it is not Nvidia's issue don't blame them it is actually the manufacturing process of the system board that is at fault the chip is fine and works great. During assembly the chip is attached to the system board via BGA soldering (Ball Grid Array) because of the heat generated by the video chip if heat is not wicked away properly and the proper amount of flux that was used the small solder joints under the chip will melt and eventually separate and no longer have contact with the chip and the system board.
As you were taking the Heat Sink off you may or may not have noticed the little squishy pad on the heat sink that was covering the video chip. IMO here is your first problem. As the system heats up over time this little pad expands and contracts it has some stickiness factor to it and will pull on the chip as it contracts when it cools.. this could be pulling the solder joints away under the video chip.
Regardless of if you are having the video issue or not this needs to be replaced.
*****Rant in my life time things have been fixed with bubble gum, bailing wire, and the almighty Duct Tape. Don't laugh at anything I will put in these blog postings... they work and have been tested repeatedly.... *********
With that said the best replacement for that pad I have found is a piece of copper with thermal paste applied to both sides to conduct heat away from the chip to the heat sink.. This will ensure that there is no flexing or expanding or contractions to break the solder joints.
So where can I find a piece of copper that will fit under there??? that is the right size?? Odds are pretty good you may have one in your pocket or in your change jar at home...
It's a Penny
Not just any Penny though it must be mostly cooper Penny.
Bit of History here the U.S. Mint in 1983 started making pennies with 97.5% Zinc with copper plating. Previously 1982 and earlier the pennies were made with 95% copper with the remaining 15% of Zinc and other metals.
Zinc will just not do so find an older penny and use it.
*** Yep another Warning ... Defacing US currency is indeed illegal.
According to:
United States Code
TITLE 18 - CRIMES AND CRIMINAL PROCEDURE
PART I - CRIMES
CHAPTER 17 - COINS AND CURRENCY
333. Mutilation of national bank obligations
so don't do it******
The surfaces of a penny are pretty smooth and may make enough contact to conduct the heat desired to the heat sink or use something else similar sized that you can sand and lap to a smooth finish. And just using a penny will not deface it and after the computer has finished its usefulness you can still use the penny.
*** Rant what about those machines you find in the Museums that mash pennies with a picture or advertisement.. Is that not defacing U.S. Currency????? end of rant ****
Here is a close up of the video chip it self.. for some reason or another HP made different revisions of the same board yours may look a bit different.. The red silicone was an attempt on their part to eliminate the separation issues but this will not help if the heat sink pad is not removed and replaced with something else.
Do not try to remove the red compound that has been placed around the video chip .. it is very hard and you may end up damaging the systemboard in the process. This procedure has worked with the red compund intact and on boards that do not have the compound.
HP also adjusted the BIOS with a flash that will keep the fans running to wick heat away that also proved to be ineffective IMO as well.
Ok now that you have the board out and know why ... How do we fix it..
Well the most permanent way to fix your issue is to send the board out for Re-Flow... there are numerous companies out there that will do this for you usually the cost is 50$ plus shipping and handling. You can find them on Fee-Bay (E-Bay) or you may be able to find a circuit repair shop in your local area ... google it..
or
There are 2 ways you can do it at home... ****Warning ... eh you know already ... never mind*****
This may be a temporary fix may or may not hold for long but worth a shot
If you have removed the memory ... which you really did not have to, to get the board out. Put it back in
Remove the pad that goes between the heat sink and the video chip ... now you definitely will see a gap between the chip and the heat sink when you reinstall the heat sink ... make sure you use thermal paste on the processor .. we don't want to damage that... BTW clean all the hard gooped up thermal compound they used its crap .. use Artic Silver the best stuff.. connect the fan so you know its on.
Reconnect the Power Cables. flip the board over place the LCD panel flat and close enough so you can watch it.
Find the Quick Launch Bezel and just attach the ribbon cable for the power.. it is the left ribbon cable.
Plug the computer in ... and turn it on ... you will still get either the beeping or no video ... let it sit.. ON for a bit less than 2 or 3 min.
Turn it off ... immediately turn it back on ... wait for it .... wait for it ... did it post? if not try again for 5 min.
If it did ... and you see the wonderful HP logo ... shut it off .. disconnect the power, the Quick Launch ribbon cable and the LCD panel flip it back over take the heat sink off ... put your piece of copper on top of the video chip (with thermal paste) reattach the Heat Sink flip it back over reattach everything and test it ...
is it still posting??? re-assemble and use
Now a more permanent fix or if none of that worked.... requires a Heat Gun, another bit of metal about the size of a Quarter .. (funny how useful money really is) and a bit of silver solder.
put the metal on top of the video chip directly with a bit of wound up solder on top so it won't blow away .. usually uses a glob of artic silver to conduct the heat between the chip and the metal.
*** Some Folks are confused as to what does the Quarter sized piece of metal and the silver solder do. Well this is my (back yard mechanic) attempt at gaugeing the heat that will be transfered to the video chip and the BGA below the chip. If the metal on top gets hot enough to melt the silver solder odds are good that the chip is getting hot enough to melt the BGA and effectivly re-joining the chip to the system board. **
Be very careful ... it will take a blink of an eye to melt plastic components surrounding the video chip.. so stay away from them with the heat gun.. this is a delicate process again DO NOT DO THIS but if you chose to. You would be better to send it out to a certified Re-Flow company.
start by heating the chip side about 5 inches away from the board for bout 30 seconds .. depending on how hot the heat gun gets..
you should have it close to a ledge so you can do the same to the bottom side.. 30 seconds or so ..
then start on the chip again..make sure the board is flat and level at this time. moving the heat gun closer ever 10 sec or so .. till the solder melts... if it melts too quickly you just got the heat gun to close to fast .. but just hold it there for another 30 sec to a min.. pull back for about another 30 seconds at 5 to 6 inches ...
Let cool.... for 30 min or more ... and test .. Just like above... if it works reassemble with your copper between the heat sink .. and your computer can be used... Waaahooo.
For More Great info on Laptop Repair Tips Hit Repair4Laptop.org the author is also the same guy that started tuxmobile.org
To find that long lost friend search4me.ws
Read more on this article...
Now if you are not covered under warranty any longer ... HP will help you at a cost .. it could be over 350$ dollars plus shipping and handling. With that type of cost you may as well just go out an purchase a new computer.
If you really decide to do that SEND ME YOUR COMPUTER I WILL TAKE IT!!!!
****Warning CYA stuff again this will void your warranty (if you still have one) and can render your laptop useless if you do something wrong if you are not comfortable taking this or any electronic product apart have a qualified Service Technician do if for you I take no responsibilities if you decide to to this your self. There is always a risk of electrocution as well capacitors can retain a charge and the power supply as well as the battery should be removed when any repair is made. (have to do this warning just a CYA thing) OH BTW DON'T DO THIS (ok that should cover me)********
But you can follow the previous posts dv6000 disassembly Part 1 and Part 2.
Also there is a guide here for the DV9000 series 17" laptop tear down
DV2000 series Tear-Down guide can be found here.
After Part 3 of the DV2000 post or the last post of the other DV tear-down guides, you will have access to the system board ... you will need to take off the Heat Sink and fan assembly if you have made it this far you should be able to do that with no problem.. as well I would remove the processor from the ZIF socket.. and you will have this.
These are Actual pictures of the DV6000 system board so your will look a little different ... but rest asured this has been tested to work on several dv2000 systemboards.
The chip that is causing the problem is circled .... thats the Nvidia Video Chip. To be honest it is not Nvidia's issue don't blame them it is actually the manufacturing process of the system board that is at fault the chip is fine and works great. During assembly the chip is attached to the system board via BGA soldering (Ball Grid Array) because of the heat generated by the video chip if heat is not wicked away properly and the proper amount of flux that was used the small solder joints under the chip will melt and eventually separate and no longer have contact with the chip and the system board.
As you were taking the Heat Sink off you may or may not have noticed the little squishy pad on the heat sink that was covering the video chip. IMO here is your first problem. As the system heats up over time this little pad expands and contracts it has some stickiness factor to it and will pull on the chip as it contracts when it cools.. this could be pulling the solder joints away under the video chip.
Regardless of if you are having the video issue or not this needs to be replaced.
*****Rant in my life time things have been fixed with bubble gum, bailing wire, and the almighty Duct Tape. Don't laugh at anything I will put in these blog postings... they work and have been tested repeatedly.... *********
With that said the best replacement for that pad I have found is a piece of copper with thermal paste applied to both sides to conduct heat away from the chip to the heat sink.. This will ensure that there is no flexing or expanding or contractions to break the solder joints.
So where can I find a piece of copper that will fit under there??? that is the right size?? Odds are pretty good you may have one in your pocket or in your change jar at home...
It's a Penny
Not just any Penny though it must be mostly cooper Penny.
Bit of History here the U.S. Mint in 1983 started making pennies with 97.5% Zinc with copper plating. Previously 1982 and earlier the pennies were made with 95% copper with the remaining 15% of Zinc and other metals.
Zinc will just not do so find an older penny and use it.
*** Yep another Warning ... Defacing US currency is indeed illegal.
According to:
United States Code
TITLE 18 - CRIMES AND CRIMINAL PROCEDURE
PART I - CRIMES
CHAPTER 17 - COINS AND CURRENCY
333. Mutilation of national bank obligations
so don't do it******
The surfaces of a penny are pretty smooth and may make enough contact to conduct the heat desired to the heat sink or use something else similar sized that you can sand and lap to a smooth finish. And just using a penny will not deface it and after the computer has finished its usefulness you can still use the penny.
*** Rant what about those machines you find in the Museums that mash pennies with a picture or advertisement.. Is that not defacing U.S. Currency????? end of rant ****
Here is a close up of the video chip it self.. for some reason or another HP made different revisions of the same board yours may look a bit different.. The red silicone was an attempt on their part to eliminate the separation issues but this will not help if the heat sink pad is not removed and replaced with something else.
Do not try to remove the red compound that has been placed around the video chip .. it is very hard and you may end up damaging the systemboard in the process. This procedure has worked with the red compund intact and on boards that do not have the compound.
HP also adjusted the BIOS with a flash that will keep the fans running to wick heat away that also proved to be ineffective IMO as well.
Ok now that you have the board out and know why ... How do we fix it..
Well the most permanent way to fix your issue is to send the board out for Re-Flow... there are numerous companies out there that will do this for you usually the cost is 50$ plus shipping and handling. You can find them on Fee-Bay (E-Bay) or you may be able to find a circuit repair shop in your local area ... google it..
or
There are 2 ways you can do it at home... ****Warning ... eh you know already ... never mind*****
This may be a temporary fix may or may not hold for long but worth a shot
If you have removed the memory ... which you really did not have to, to get the board out. Put it back in
Remove the pad that goes between the heat sink and the video chip ... now you definitely will see a gap between the chip and the heat sink when you reinstall the heat sink ... make sure you use thermal paste on the processor .. we don't want to damage that... BTW clean all the hard gooped up thermal compound they used its crap .. use Artic Silver the best stuff.. connect the fan so you know its on.
Reconnect the Power Cables. flip the board over place the LCD panel flat and close enough so you can watch it.
Find the Quick Launch Bezel and just attach the ribbon cable for the power.. it is the left ribbon cable.
Plug the computer in ... and turn it on ... you will still get either the beeping or no video ... let it sit.. ON for a bit less than 2 or 3 min.
Turn it off ... immediately turn it back on ... wait for it .... wait for it ... did it post? if not try again for 5 min.
If it did ... and you see the wonderful HP logo ... shut it off .. disconnect the power, the Quick Launch ribbon cable and the LCD panel flip it back over take the heat sink off ... put your piece of copper on top of the video chip (with thermal paste) reattach the Heat Sink flip it back over reattach everything and test it ...
is it still posting??? re-assemble and use
Now a more permanent fix or if none of that worked.... requires a Heat Gun, another bit of metal about the size of a Quarter .. (funny how useful money really is) and a bit of silver solder.
put the metal on top of the video chip directly with a bit of wound up solder on top so it won't blow away .. usually uses a glob of artic silver to conduct the heat between the chip and the metal.
*** Some Folks are confused as to what does the Quarter sized piece of metal and the silver solder do. Well this is my (back yard mechanic) attempt at gaugeing the heat that will be transfered to the video chip and the BGA below the chip. If the metal on top gets hot enough to melt the silver solder odds are good that the chip is getting hot enough to melt the BGA and effectivly re-joining the chip to the system board. **
Be very careful ... it will take a blink of an eye to melt plastic components surrounding the video chip.. so stay away from them with the heat gun.. this is a delicate process again DO NOT DO THIS but if you chose to. You would be better to send it out to a certified Re-Flow company.
start by heating the chip side about 5 inches away from the board for bout 30 seconds .. depending on how hot the heat gun gets..
you should have it close to a ledge so you can do the same to the bottom side.. 30 seconds or so ..
then start on the chip again..make sure the board is flat and level at this time. moving the heat gun closer ever 10 sec or so .. till the solder melts... if it melts too quickly you just got the heat gun to close to fast .. but just hold it there for another 30 sec to a min.. pull back for about another 30 seconds at 5 to 6 inches ...
Let cool.... for 30 min or more ... and test .. Just like above... if it works reassemble with your copper between the heat sink .. and your computer can be used... Waaahooo.
For More Great info on Laptop Repair Tips Hit Repair4Laptop.org the author is also the same guy that started tuxmobile.org
To find that long lost friend search4me.ws
